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Wonders of Watchmaking

At the 2017 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve (GPHG), also known as the “Oscar’s of timepieces”; the world witnessed the best that the universe of horology has to offer. At the prestigious awards ceremony held this month at the Théâtre du Léman in Geneva, a jury of connoisseurs and horological luminaries, chose the best and most innovative marvels from the world of modern watchmaking. We look at the winners of the top five categories, that make for ideal gifts for our loved ones this festive season…

 

The Aiguille d’Or or Golden Hand Winner: Chopard’s L.U.C Full Strike

Estimated price: $270,300

The iconic Swiss brand’s first minute repeater won the headlining award of the evening, not only for its most technically complex watch ever, but also for celebrating two glorious decades since founding its high end LUC manufacture. The watch consumed more than six years of intricate work, and comes in a42.5 mm case in 18k rose gold with a partially open-worked dial that reveals its inner-workings and chimes the hours, quarters and minutes on a patented transparent sapphire crystal gong. The watch comes with hand-sewn double-sided alligator leather straps and an 18k rose gold pin-buckle.

 

Best Women’s Watch Winner: Chanel’s Première Camélia Skeleton

Estimated price: $215,800

The Parisian brand celebrated 30 years since the launch of the Première watch with the chronograph Première Camélia Skeleton. The signature geometric shape of the timepiece and two-tier construction is equal measures of classic and modish. Its 28.5 x 37 mm dial is encased in white gold and the bezel is set with 42 baguette-cut diamonds and 52 brilliant-cut diamonds. The crown is encrusted with 16 baguette-cut diamonds and 11 brilliant-cut diamonds, giving it a refined appeal. The orchestrated movement takes the shape of a three-dimensional camellia flower, the brand’s icon.

 

Best Women’s High Mech Watch Winner: Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Papillon Automate

Estimated price: $290,000

The French jewellery and watch makers are known for their poetic translations of ornaments. Van Cleef & Arpels’s latest complicated watch, the Papillon Automate revolves around the life of a fluttering butterfly that adjusts itself to the level of activity to that of the wearer. A butterfly automaton on the dial, rendered in gold and plique-à-jour enamel, gently flaps its wings on command or seemingly at random. The higher the state of wind—and the more active the self-winding rotor becomes—the more frequently the butterfly will spring to life. Driven by a clever system that uses an irregular 19-toothed trigger wheel attached to the winding system produces the apparently random flutter of the wings. The system and the fabulously crafted dial embellished with diamonds and four kinds of enameling, including curved plique-à-jour are made all the more impressive by the fact that they were developed entirely in-house.

 

 

Best Men’s Watch Winner: Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Automatic

Estimated Price: $12,500

Bulgari has a proven record when it comes to luxury horology so its not much of a surprise that the brand snagged another award in the same category, second year in a row. The Italian powerhouse already holds the record for the thinnest tourbillon as well as the thinnest minute repeater. This year, their winning feat was creating the thinnest automatic movement for this watch. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic contains the caliber BVL 138, which is the new record holder for the world’s thinnest automatic movement, and its ultra-compact size measuring 2.23 mm x 36.6 mm is designed to offer a power reserve of 60 hours which is groundbreaking. It is also offered in an option of lush alligator skin strap or a titanium one.

 

Jewellery Watch Winner: Chopard Lotus Blanc

Estimated Price: $813,870

Set with 25.66 carats of white diamonds, the Chopard Lotus Blanc watch reflects the meticulous work of the seasoned artisans who crafted its petals with sparkle as if dotted with dewdrops.  The case of the watch animates the hour and minutes hands made with opulent titanium and platinum, while the white gold flowing bracelet is a masterpiece on its own, composed of fine rows of diamonds, resembling undulating waters on which the flower floats.